We dropped Marion and Hugh off at Levkas to catch their plane and then rushed off down to Vlicho bar near Nidri as we knew a storm was coming through that night. Vlicho is an enormous, land-locked bay with a wonderful mud bottom - superb holding for an anchor.
In the event we we were very glad that we did as we clocked 45 knots overnight and that was in a well sheltered location. Heaven knows what would have hit us on Levkas town quay!
We met up with Otti and Rosi - a lovely German couple we first met in Sami and shared a couple of vry pleasant evenings with them - one at the 'yacht club' which provides superb services and good food to yachties in the bay.
We waited 3 days for nicer weather and then set off on Wednesday. We started early, but had got no more than a mile when the engine cooling water packed up - it turned out to be a sucked-up jellyfish. It took a lot of getting out and the poor thing was distinctly the worse for wear!
We motored past Abeliki on Meganissi and then turned south for a wonderful long spinaker run almost down to Nisos Petalas - near the turn into the Gulf of Petalas. At the last minute, a gust blew up and turned almost 100 degrees - almost wrapping the sail around the mast. We started the engine - which unusually was very hard to get going. We were so busy getting the sail down before we got too close to the fish-farm just down-wind that I didn't think much about it.
We motored the short distance to the anchorage at Petalas, put the anchor down, ate a quick supper and went to bed.
The forecast for the next couple of days was miserable so we decided to stay put so I started the engine to charge the batteries - and again it didn't want to start but eventually limped into life. I couldn't figure it out. Then luckily I looked at the battery charging monitor and notied that the alternator was putting out 200amps! Panic! The batteries, the electronics or the alternator could fry at any second so shut everything down.
After a lot of head-scratching and general cussing, I spotted some chafe on small wire at the back of the alternator. Wrapping it resolved the problem! It was the field coil connection which was shorting to earth and bypassing both the original and the smart regulators.
Once fixed, all the problems went away - except a new one that the oil pressure light is flashing on intermittently. I'm nearly certain it is an electrical fault but we set of on Saturday early under sail just in case. All went well until Nisos Oxia where the wind died completely. We had no choice but to motor the remaining 10 miles to Messolonghi - fortunately without incident!
So here we are, and here Rosa will remain, for the next 5 or 6 months. The marina has come on a great deal since we were here in spring. They have showers, toilets, a yachtie club-house, water and electricity and many tailed moorings are in place. They'll have WiFi soon and more toilets and showers.
That's all for this year. I'll start blogging again when we return in March.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Back up to Levkas
We're picking up Marion and Hugh at Levkas on the 27th of September and have a couple of chores to do while we're there so we've come up in just 3 hops - Nissos Petalas, Spartahori and Levkas. It should have been pretty simple, we had fair winds (Easterlies and Southerlies). Nothing strong amd mostly not too light either.
In the event - our old friend - cooling water failure has surfaced again. Coming through the canals, we had several mysterious episodes where the engine cooling water suddenly stopped - only to clear again if I disturbed the pipes. In Paris, and several times since, I stripped and flushed everything I could find but it still kept happeneing. Then suddenly it stopped and we've had no more trouble for 18 months. Last week, for no apparent reason, it started again.
We ended up doing the last 4 miles to Petalas at 1.5Knots under sail so as not to use the engine and we anchored under sail - just to prove we still could. Actually it was rather nice - but would have been better if we didn't have the stress of not knowing when the engine would fail again.
It went again on the way to Spartahori - but again the winds played nicely and we had a gorgeous sail up around Meganissi.
We had never been to Spartahori before although several people have said it's lovely. So we decided to give it a try. The village on the hill is truly beautiful with tiny winding paved streets running between pastel-painted houses often covered in Vines and creepers with brilliant pink flowers.
The village was rather odd though - there were almost no people and certainly no smiles to be seen. The only people seemed to be black-clad ancient widdows creeping silently about their business. It seemed like a "local village for local people". Most un-Greek.
Mooring was strange and not all that pleasant too. We were met and directed to a place by a chap on the quay who we took to be official. He shouted streams of orders and got us in bows-to with a lot of stress and hurry and definitely not how we would have done it ourselves. It all got a bit fraught in the end and he took umbrage as we didn't quite want all of his help.
It later turned out that he isn't official - just officious - he's the local taverna owner. After going up to the town we came back and had a beer in the taverna but the staff were surly and it wasn't a pleasant experience. We won't go back there again.
The final journey up to Levkas went without a hitch and we moored exactly where we wanted to after waiting 1/2 hour for a boat to leave. Most of it was under Spinaker although, discretion being the best part of valour, we motored up the canal.
We had one incident 1/2 way between Petalas and Meganissi which could have been a disaster but which we got away with by the skin our teeth. There was a chain of small islands in our path which are aurrounded by extensive fish farms. We set course for the largest gap and sailed gently towards it for an hour. As we got to about 1/2 hour away, a substantial vessel with a crane on it and two small speedboats started working on the farm closest to where we would pass. They completely ignored us but as we got level with them, the vessel gave two toots. Several people were working or wacthing us as we gave 150M berth. We thought they were being friendly and gave a cheery wave. Nobody waved back.
Suddenly, I spotted a large submerged rope right across our path and about 20 yards ahead. There was no time to react and we went straight over it. I expected any second to feel it tightening around the keel or the rudders but somehow we carried straight on. I think the keel - which slants backwards at 45 degrees - must have pushed it down far enough that the rudders managed to clear it by inches. You expect to have nets and fishing gear around fishing boats and to give them a wide berth - you don't expect fish-farms to have huge un-marked nets stretching out 300 meters away from them. A very scary experience!
On the way up, I had noticed what I thought was an oil leak - so we reported it to CYS who had done the service two weeks before. They sent an engineer and it turned out to be a fuel leak from a badly fitted filter. Not too impressive - but they did make good and 'Pip' the second engineer was excellent. I'll happily have him on Rosa again if we're near Levkas when the next service is due.
In the event - our old friend - cooling water failure has surfaced again. Coming through the canals, we had several mysterious episodes where the engine cooling water suddenly stopped - only to clear again if I disturbed the pipes. In Paris, and several times since, I stripped and flushed everything I could find but it still kept happeneing. Then suddenly it stopped and we've had no more trouble for 18 months. Last week, for no apparent reason, it started again.
We ended up doing the last 4 miles to Petalas at 1.5Knots under sail so as not to use the engine and we anchored under sail - just to prove we still could. Actually it was rather nice - but would have been better if we didn't have the stress of not knowing when the engine would fail again.
It went again on the way to Spartahori - but again the winds played nicely and we had a gorgeous sail up around Meganissi.
We had never been to Spartahori before although several people have said it's lovely. So we decided to give it a try. The village on the hill is truly beautiful with tiny winding paved streets running between pastel-painted houses often covered in Vines and creepers with brilliant pink flowers.The village was rather odd though - there were almost no people and certainly no smiles to be seen. The only people seemed to be black-clad ancient widdows creeping silently about their business. It seemed like a "local village for local people". Most un-Greek.
Mooring was strange and not all that pleasant too. We were met and directed to a place by a chap on the quay who we took to be official. He shouted streams of orders and got us in bows-to with a lot of stress and hurry and definitely not how we would have done it ourselves. It all got a bit fraught in the end and he took umbrage as we didn't quite want all of his help.
It later turned out that he isn't official - just officious - he's the local taverna owner. After going up to the town we came back and had a beer in the taverna but the staff were surly and it wasn't a pleasant experience. We won't go back there again.
The final journey up to Levkas went without a hitch and we moored exactly where we wanted to after waiting 1/2 hour for a boat to leave. Most of it was under Spinaker although, discretion being the best part of valour, we motored up the canal.
We had one incident 1/2 way between Petalas and Meganissi which could have been a disaster but which we got away with by the skin our teeth. There was a chain of small islands in our path which are aurrounded by extensive fish farms. We set course for the largest gap and sailed gently towards it for an hour. As we got to about 1/2 hour away, a substantial vessel with a crane on it and two small speedboats started working on the farm closest to where we would pass. They completely ignored us but as we got level with them, the vessel gave two toots. Several people were working or wacthing us as we gave 150M berth. We thought they were being friendly and gave a cheery wave. Nobody waved back.Suddenly, I spotted a large submerged rope right across our path and about 20 yards ahead. There was no time to react and we went straight over it. I expected any second to feel it tightening around the keel or the rudders but somehow we carried straight on. I think the keel - which slants backwards at 45 degrees - must have pushed it down far enough that the rudders managed to clear it by inches. You expect to have nets and fishing gear around fishing boats and to give them a wide berth - you don't expect fish-farms to have huge un-marked nets stretching out 300 meters away from them. A very scary experience!
On the way up, I had noticed what I thought was an oil leak - so we reported it to CYS who had done the service two weeks before. They sent an engineer and it turned out to be a fuel leak from a badly fitted filter. Not too impressive - but they did make good and 'Pip' the second engineer was excellent. I'll happily have him on Rosa again if we're near Levkas when the next service is due.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Paxos, Levkas, Kefalonia and Messalonghi
It seems a long time since I wrote and quite a lot of water has gone under the keel.
We had a great couple of days in Paxos with Maria (Michael's daughter) and then Micheal himself. We managed to pack two potential disasters into a single 24 hours although we managed to get away with both - more or less unscathed.
Firstly, in Lakka, we anchored with long lines ashore. Unfortunately, while using the engine to back up towards the shore (taking the pressure off the rope) we managed to let it go slack and round the prop it went. Jammed Solid! And the rope cutter didn't chop through it - in fact it made things worse by jamming the rope in its teeth and making it impossible to unwind without cutting it. I found yet another reason to bless Rosa's designer who put the prop well towards the stern and only a couple of feet down. Relatively easy to dive on. The lesson learned is to take the long line in the dinghy (easily done as the reel fits snugly), attach it to the shore, and then unwind it towards the boat (which can then freely motor astern to help) but without taking a risk with the prop.
Next day we sailed the spectacular Western side of Paxos, enjoying the enormous Northern cave and then anchoring by the middle set for lunch. After some lovely swimming in crystal water and exploring the caves by dinghy, we got back on board and pulled the anchor up - stuck solid under a rock in 10M of water with no diver within 20 miles. We tried pulling backwards, pulling up and pulling forwards. Nothing shifted it. L came up with the idea of using the bow thruster to give it a hard jerk sideways and amazingly it came free in one piece. We were very lucky! Lesson learned: rig a trip line if there are rocks where you're anchoring - particularly if it's too deep to free dive.
After putting Maria and Michael on the ferry in Gaios, we set off for Levkas where we had the engine serviced (serious ouch) and finally figured out what had been wrong with the batteries for 2 weeks (a cell in the new one had gone short-circuit.
We then spent a night in Vlicho (amid loads of jellyfish)then two nights on the Nielson pontoon in Nidhri. The charge an extremely reasonable €10 for a night including water and electricity. Their staff were helpful and friendly and the only slight disadvantage is that you act as a target-to-miss for all the first-time sailors they are teaching. Lindsay managed to get all her washing and shopping done in the two days without having to flog around in the dinghy and without having to do it all by hand.
We met Ian, Sue, John and Carol - friends from Malta - and had a couple of raucous nights of shared dinners and late-night drinking.
After Nidhri, we spent a night in Abeliki on Meganissi then had a great sail over to Fiscardo. It was crowded even this late in the season (mid September) at 1500. Luckily with our shallow draft, we were able to go stern too on the quay to the right of the pontoon. By the way - the pontoon is now fixed and operational again. We thoroughly enjoyed the tiny museum but the rest of Fiscardo is not quite as we remember it from 8 years ago. The tavernas and tat shops have expanded, the Captains table has disappeared and the high-class boutiques are being squeezed out. Nevertheless, it's still a nice place to visit.
With the weather closing in on Monday, we went down to Sami on Saturday and met up with John and Carol again. We made a dogs dinner of stern-to mooring including a rather public dispute between L and myself as to which rings we should tie on to. She was right - dammit!
L then contrived to get on the gang plank just as the end of it was slipping off the quay - and fell backwards into the drink. Luckily she didn't hit anything on the way down and the water was clean!
In the afternoon, we crazily set off on an impromptu hike to the Acropolis - flip-flops, no water, and stuff in a shopping bag. After an hour of hard climbing we had got about half way up the steep, rocky path through the woods - and after a rest, said "sod this for a game of soldiers" and came down again much faster than we went up. I was knackered!
After a late night session with John and Carol (sadly the later parts without L who was sightly the worse for wear) we set off early in the morning for the 8 hour slog to Messolonghi. The wind was light and on the nose so we motored until we entered the Gulf of Patras - where it was heavy and on the nose with two Meter waves very close together. Most uncomfortable! We arrived in late afternoon to find the Marina (still free) much improved from our last visit. There are toilets, showers and water - electricity now on-site and promised in the next few days. We signed our winter contract and are now hunkered down for the promised storms tomorrow.
We had a great couple of days in Paxos with Maria (Michael's daughter) and then Micheal himself. We managed to pack two potential disasters into a single 24 hours although we managed to get away with both - more or less unscathed.
Firstly, in Lakka, we anchored with long lines ashore. Unfortunately, while using the engine to back up towards the shore (taking the pressure off the rope) we managed to let it go slack and round the prop it went. Jammed Solid! And the rope cutter didn't chop through it - in fact it made things worse by jamming the rope in its teeth and making it impossible to unwind without cutting it. I found yet another reason to bless Rosa's designer who put the prop well towards the stern and only a couple of feet down. Relatively easy to dive on. The lesson learned is to take the long line in the dinghy (easily done as the reel fits snugly), attach it to the shore, and then unwind it towards the boat (which can then freely motor astern to help) but without taking a risk with the prop.
Next day we sailed the spectacular Western side of Paxos, enjoying the enormous Northern cave and then anchoring by the middle set for lunch. After some lovely swimming in crystal water and exploring the caves by dinghy, we got back on board and pulled the anchor up - stuck solid under a rock in 10M of water with no diver within 20 miles. We tried pulling backwards, pulling up and pulling forwards. Nothing shifted it. L came up with the idea of using the bow thruster to give it a hard jerk sideways and amazingly it came free in one piece. We were very lucky! Lesson learned: rig a trip line if there are rocks where you're anchoring - particularly if it's too deep to free dive.
After putting Maria and Michael on the ferry in Gaios, we set off for Levkas where we had the engine serviced (serious ouch) and finally figured out what had been wrong with the batteries for 2 weeks (a cell in the new one had gone short-circuit.
We then spent a night in Vlicho (amid loads of jellyfish)then two nights on the Nielson pontoon in Nidhri. The charge an extremely reasonable €10 for a night including water and electricity. Their staff were helpful and friendly and the only slight disadvantage is that you act as a target-to-miss for all the first-time sailors they are teaching. Lindsay managed to get all her washing and shopping done in the two days without having to flog around in the dinghy and without having to do it all by hand.
We met Ian, Sue, John and Carol - friends from Malta - and had a couple of raucous nights of shared dinners and late-night drinking.
After Nidhri, we spent a night in Abeliki on Meganissi then had a great sail over to Fiscardo. It was crowded even this late in the season (mid September) at 1500. Luckily with our shallow draft, we were able to go stern too on the quay to the right of the pontoon. By the way - the pontoon is now fixed and operational again. We thoroughly enjoyed the tiny museum but the rest of Fiscardo is not quite as we remember it from 8 years ago. The tavernas and tat shops have expanded, the Captains table has disappeared and the high-class boutiques are being squeezed out. Nevertheless, it's still a nice place to visit.
With the weather closing in on Monday, we went down to Sami on Saturday and met up with John and Carol again. We made a dogs dinner of stern-to mooring including a rather public dispute between L and myself as to which rings we should tie on to. She was right - dammit!
L then contrived to get on the gang plank just as the end of it was slipping off the quay - and fell backwards into the drink. Luckily she didn't hit anything on the way down and the water was clean!
In the afternoon, we crazily set off on an impromptu hike to the Acropolis - flip-flops, no water, and stuff in a shopping bag. After an hour of hard climbing we had got about half way up the steep, rocky path through the woods - and after a rest, said "sod this for a game of soldiers" and came down again much faster than we went up. I was knackered!
After a late night session with John and Carol (sadly the later parts without L who was sightly the worse for wear) we set off early in the morning for the 8 hour slog to Messolonghi. The wind was light and on the nose so we motored until we entered the Gulf of Patras - where it was heavy and on the nose with two Meter waves very close together. Most uncomfortable! We arrived in late afternoon to find the Marina (still free) much improved from our last visit. There are toilets, showers and water - electricity now on-site and promised in the next few days. We signed our winter contract and are now hunkered down for the promised storms tomorrow.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Drifting south where the wind blows
We've spent a couple of days in Corfu, catching up with washing, shopping, boat maintenance and work. After visiting friends for lunch today we're setting off South tomorrow. Weather permitting, we will reach Lakka tomorrow and Preveza on Saturday and Nidri on Sunday. After a bit more heavy washing and shopping, we will then meander around as the fancy takes us in the Southern Ionian.
More when we start on new territory again.
More when we start on new territory again.
Family Visit
We spent the past week with Kieran, Nicki, Morgan and Madison - mostly in and around Paxos. It could have ended in tears with so many cooped up together in a small boat. In the event though it was a wonderful week and Rosa feels rather empty without them.Here's hoping for another visit next year!
We decided to stay the week in Paxos as it has wonderful beaches, safe anchorages, fascinating caves and scenery and all in a short distance so those less than accustomed to gointg to sea in a small boat would not get any nasty frights!
We collected everybody via a 10 minute taxi ride to NAOK. We were unable to secure a berth in August so we anchored by the entrance of the Marina, under the Fort, and nobody objected to the taxi arriving and everyone trooping across the little bridges to the dinghy moored right on the corner of the pool. There was strong objection and lots of shouting to someone else who parked a dinghy beside the swimming pool.
We lazed and walked around the fort, got an early bed and sea-sickness tablets to those needing them and set of at 0200 to Lakka on Paxos. The idea was that the seasick could kip and avoid the worst then wake up in Lakka. It almost worked except for the swell in the last 5 miles.
After Lakka, we went down to Mongonissi and stayed a couple of days. Its a lovely safe anchorage with a sandy beach for the children (very rare), nice tavernas and even pedaloes. Everyone had a great time swimming, paddling, greek dancing, eating and generally doing holiday things. Morgan particularly went from a fairly tentative sea-swimmer to jumping in and out with gay abandon and she even learned to snorkel.
So did Kieran and Nicki!
Greek dancing was enjoyed by all the womenfolk. Kieran and I were too wimpish to join in.
We were all entertained as much by Morgan and Madison as they were by us. Magic!
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Visiting Father Michael
We met Michael in Messalonghi and D enjoyed a bike ride with him round the sights of the town. He invited us to look him up when we came to Corfu. Sadly we managed to lose the contact details - turned the boat upside down looking for the card but not to be found.
Fortunately, he sent an e-mail when we were chilling out in Lakka. We shot up to NAOK (corfu town).
His charming son Gabriel met us and took us to see St. Spiridon paraded through the streets - very spectacular. Bands, Priests, bishops, monks and half the population following a huge bier supporting most of what remains of the saint and a priest carrying his right hand in a silver casket. All very alien to us. Apparently this is not usual in Greece, but Corfu picked up the processional tradition from the Venetians.
We then took Gabriel for a short voyage to his home in Nisaki right across the bay. The village has a tiny harbour where there was just room for one yacht. Well almost - we had a run-in with as small tripper boat who thought we were outstaying our welcome. Filipos and Michael were incensed (he's not even a local) and told us to stand our ground and stay put - so we did.
We stayed there for three days meeting Michael's family, eating at the Tavernas where the children work, visting some lovely churches, villages and the monastery af Pantokrator - and talking a lot of theology and philosophy. Haven't enjoyed myself so much for years! They will be coming for a voyage in early September we hope.
We had to leave on Friday as we needed to tank up with water at Saiyadah and then to NAOK again to get the boat ready for the onslaught of children and grandchildren next week. We're going to go and hang around Paxos for a week with them so I will be taking a weeks blogging holiday.
When we pulled into the anchorage, to our surprise there was Penguin V with Phil and Maria. Had a lovely long chat about old times and recent experiences over G&Ts on cat called Nine Lives.
Next step is to set off south to see Kefalonia and Zakinthos.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Drifting around the Northern Ionian Islands
After Leaving Corfu, we've spent several weeks just drifting around. We were warned that in July and particularly August, it's too hot and too crowded (particularly with Italian motor yachts).
In the event, those problems, while they exist, seemed to us to be much exaggerated. The heat is easily manageable by mostly anchoring, and falling off the back of the boat whenever we start to sweat. A boom tent is a great help - particularly a silvered one like ours which reflects most of the heat back into the sky.
Italians, and particularly those in motor yachts, are gregarious things so they tend to congregate in obvious places with lots of shops, tavernas and quay-side moorings. If you avoid those places (or get there early in the morning - around 11.00) then all you are left with is a lot of smaller yachts which are usually very pleasant.
We've been to some beautiful anchorages Erikoussa (North of Corfu)
Kalami (NE Corfu), Sivota (on the Mainland) and everywhere on Paxos / Antipaxos spring particularly to mind. Paxos is as close to Heaven on Earth that we have found so far.
The quick-fried prawns in Saiyadah are still there (although they now use much larger prawns and no longer have a half oil drum of boiling olive oil).
Mourtos harbour extension is now having water and electricity points installed - should be operational from August 2009.
Avoid the bay North of Igoumenitsa unless very tired - The holding is great and there's nobody else there. Even the ferry wash is reasonable as they go slowly in and out. BUT there is a loud heavy metal disco behind the radar structure which goes on till 0430!
Corfu was disappointing. There is very little useful infrastructure for yachts and a great deal of (sometimes offensive) tourist development. The only place in Greece where we've seen this so far. This also means that useful quiet anchorages are also few and far between as beaches are buoyed off for swimmers and the sea is churned by all manner of noisy motorised water sports. I guess we should just be grateful that it is mostly concentrated on one island - and avoid it. The best place we've found to anchor is between the entrance of NAOK and the fortress of Mandraki. It can be noisy but it's usually clean, and you can moor the dinghy and get a beer ar the yacht club.
In the event, those problems, while they exist, seemed to us to be much exaggerated. The heat is easily manageable by mostly anchoring, and falling off the back of the boat whenever we start to sweat. A boom tent is a great help - particularly a silvered one like ours which reflects most of the heat back into the sky.
Italians, and particularly those in motor yachts, are gregarious things so they tend to congregate in obvious places with lots of shops, tavernas and quay-side moorings. If you avoid those places (or get there early in the morning - around 11.00) then all you are left with is a lot of smaller yachts which are usually very pleasant.
We've been to some beautiful anchorages Erikoussa (North of Corfu)
Kalami (NE Corfu), Sivota (on the Mainland) and everywhere on Paxos / Antipaxos spring particularly to mind. Paxos is as close to Heaven on Earth that we have found so far.
The quick-fried prawns in Saiyadah are still there (although they now use much larger prawns and no longer have a half oil drum of boiling olive oil).
Mourtos harbour extension is now having water and electricity points installed - should be operational from August 2009.
Avoid the bay North of Igoumenitsa unless very tired - The holding is great and there's nobody else there. Even the ferry wash is reasonable as they go slowly in and out. BUT there is a loud heavy metal disco behind the radar structure which goes on till 0430!
Corfu was disappointing. There is very little useful infrastructure for yachts and a great deal of (sometimes offensive) tourist development. The only place in Greece where we've seen this so far. This also means that useful quiet anchorages are also few and far between as beaches are buoyed off for swimmers and the sea is churned by all manner of noisy motorised water sports. I guess we should just be grateful that it is mostly concentrated on one island - and avoid it. The best place we've found to anchor is between the entrance of NAOK and the fortress of Mandraki. It can be noisy but it's usually clean, and you can moor the dinghy and get a beer ar the yacht club.
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