We've spent a couple of days in Corfu, catching up with washing, shopping, boat maintenance and work. After visiting friends for lunch today we're setting off South tomorrow. Weather permitting, we will reach Lakka tomorrow and Preveza on Saturday and Nidri on Sunday. After a bit more heavy washing and shopping, we will then meander around as the fancy takes us in the Southern Ionian.
More when we start on new territory again.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Family Visit
We spent the past week with Kieran, Nicki, Morgan and Madison - mostly in and around Paxos. It could have ended in tears with so many cooped up together in a small boat. In the event though it was a wonderful week and Rosa feels rather empty without them.Here's hoping for another visit next year!
We decided to stay the week in Paxos as it has wonderful beaches, safe anchorages, fascinating caves and scenery and all in a short distance so those less than accustomed to gointg to sea in a small boat would not get any nasty frights!
We collected everybody via a 10 minute taxi ride to NAOK. We were unable to secure a berth in August so we anchored by the entrance of the Marina, under the Fort, and nobody objected to the taxi arriving and everyone trooping across the little bridges to the dinghy moored right on the corner of the pool. There was strong objection and lots of shouting to someone else who parked a dinghy beside the swimming pool.
We lazed and walked around the fort, got an early bed and sea-sickness tablets to those needing them and set of at 0200 to Lakka on Paxos. The idea was that the seasick could kip and avoid the worst then wake up in Lakka. It almost worked except for the swell in the last 5 miles.
After Lakka, we went down to Mongonissi and stayed a couple of days. Its a lovely safe anchorage with a sandy beach for the children (very rare), nice tavernas and even pedaloes. Everyone had a great time swimming, paddling, greek dancing, eating and generally doing holiday things. Morgan particularly went from a fairly tentative sea-swimmer to jumping in and out with gay abandon and she even learned to snorkel.
So did Kieran and Nicki!
Greek dancing was enjoyed by all the womenfolk. Kieran and I were too wimpish to join in.
We were all entertained as much by Morgan and Madison as they were by us. Magic!
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Visiting Father Michael
We met Michael in Messalonghi and D enjoyed a bike ride with him round the sights of the town. He invited us to look him up when we came to Corfu. Sadly we managed to lose the contact details - turned the boat upside down looking for the card but not to be found.
Fortunately, he sent an e-mail when we were chilling out in Lakka. We shot up to NAOK (corfu town).
His charming son Gabriel met us and took us to see St. Spiridon paraded through the streets - very spectacular. Bands, Priests, bishops, monks and half the population following a huge bier supporting most of what remains of the saint and a priest carrying his right hand in a silver casket. All very alien to us. Apparently this is not usual in Greece, but Corfu picked up the processional tradition from the Venetians.
We then took Gabriel for a short voyage to his home in Nisaki right across the bay. The village has a tiny harbour where there was just room for one yacht. Well almost - we had a run-in with as small tripper boat who thought we were outstaying our welcome. Filipos and Michael were incensed (he's not even a local) and told us to stand our ground and stay put - so we did.
We stayed there for three days meeting Michael's family, eating at the Tavernas where the children work, visting some lovely churches, villages and the monastery af Pantokrator - and talking a lot of theology and philosophy. Haven't enjoyed myself so much for years! They will be coming for a voyage in early September we hope.
We had to leave on Friday as we needed to tank up with water at Saiyadah and then to NAOK again to get the boat ready for the onslaught of children and grandchildren next week. We're going to go and hang around Paxos for a week with them so I will be taking a weeks blogging holiday.
When we pulled into the anchorage, to our surprise there was Penguin V with Phil and Maria. Had a lovely long chat about old times and recent experiences over G&Ts on cat called Nine Lives.
Next step is to set off south to see Kefalonia and Zakinthos.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Drifting around the Northern Ionian Islands
After Leaving Corfu, we've spent several weeks just drifting around. We were warned that in July and particularly August, it's too hot and too crowded (particularly with Italian motor yachts).
In the event, those problems, while they exist, seemed to us to be much exaggerated. The heat is easily manageable by mostly anchoring, and falling off the back of the boat whenever we start to sweat. A boom tent is a great help - particularly a silvered one like ours which reflects most of the heat back into the sky.
Italians, and particularly those in motor yachts, are gregarious things so they tend to congregate in obvious places with lots of shops, tavernas and quay-side moorings. If you avoid those places (or get there early in the morning - around 11.00) then all you are left with is a lot of smaller yachts which are usually very pleasant.
We've been to some beautiful anchorages Erikoussa (North of Corfu)
Kalami (NE Corfu), Sivota (on the Mainland) and everywhere on Paxos / Antipaxos spring particularly to mind. Paxos is as close to Heaven on Earth that we have found so far.
The quick-fried prawns in Saiyadah are still there (although they now use much larger prawns and no longer have a half oil drum of boiling olive oil).
Mourtos harbour extension is now having water and electricity points installed - should be operational from August 2009.
Avoid the bay North of Igoumenitsa unless very tired - The holding is great and there's nobody else there. Even the ferry wash is reasonable as they go slowly in and out. BUT there is a loud heavy metal disco behind the radar structure which goes on till 0430!
Corfu was disappointing. There is very little useful infrastructure for yachts and a great deal of (sometimes offensive) tourist development. The only place in Greece where we've seen this so far. This also means that useful quiet anchorages are also few and far between as beaches are buoyed off for swimmers and the sea is churned by all manner of noisy motorised water sports. I guess we should just be grateful that it is mostly concentrated on one island - and avoid it. The best place we've found to anchor is between the entrance of NAOK and the fortress of Mandraki. It can be noisy but it's usually clean, and you can moor the dinghy and get a beer ar the yacht club.
In the event, those problems, while they exist, seemed to us to be much exaggerated. The heat is easily manageable by mostly anchoring, and falling off the back of the boat whenever we start to sweat. A boom tent is a great help - particularly a silvered one like ours which reflects most of the heat back into the sky.
Italians, and particularly those in motor yachts, are gregarious things so they tend to congregate in obvious places with lots of shops, tavernas and quay-side moorings. If you avoid those places (or get there early in the morning - around 11.00) then all you are left with is a lot of smaller yachts which are usually very pleasant.
We've been to some beautiful anchorages Erikoussa (North of Corfu)
Kalami (NE Corfu), Sivota (on the Mainland) and everywhere on Paxos / Antipaxos spring particularly to mind. Paxos is as close to Heaven on Earth that we have found so far.
The quick-fried prawns in Saiyadah are still there (although they now use much larger prawns and no longer have a half oil drum of boiling olive oil).
Mourtos harbour extension is now having water and electricity points installed - should be operational from August 2009.
Avoid the bay North of Igoumenitsa unless very tired - The holding is great and there's nobody else there. Even the ferry wash is reasonable as they go slowly in and out. BUT there is a loud heavy metal disco behind the radar structure which goes on till 0430!
Corfu was disappointing. There is very little useful infrastructure for yachts and a great deal of (sometimes offensive) tourist development. The only place in Greece where we've seen this so far. This also means that useful quiet anchorages are also few and far between as beaches are buoyed off for swimmers and the sea is churned by all manner of noisy motorised water sports. I guess we should just be grateful that it is mostly concentrated on one island - and avoid it. The best place we've found to anchor is between the entrance of NAOK and the fortress of Mandraki. It can be noisy but it's usually clean, and you can moor the dinghy and get a beer ar the yacht club.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
North to Corfu
We approached this voyage with some trepidation as many people have told us that the Northern Ionian in July and August is too hot and too crowded to be enjoyable. So in the event we have been pleasantly surprised. We were never unable to get in where we wanted to and although it has been quite warm, the cool sea is just a few feet away and Rosa provides plenty of shade. Because of the expected crowding, we have generally tried to arrive at ports in the morning and that has worked well. Mosquitoes seem to be everywhere but only appear as the sun sets. They even seem to go away while it is dark. But while they are there, they are voracious.
From Preveza, we set off just before 0800 and had a 6 hour, uneventful motor to Mongonisi on the south of Paxos. It was just as we remembered it: a safe anchorage with a free quay and taverna tucked in under the island. There seems to be a new cafe down at the end of the bay, but the waiter said it had always been there. We chose to anchor and had several nice cool swims during the afternoon.
Next day we headed down to Emerald bay. It had looked packed as we went past the previous day, so we resolved to get there early. The central bay is unspoiled and lovely. Clear turquoise water (L swears its green, but I don't see it that way) over soft sand. We took a line ashore and stayed for two days. It gets pretty manic between 1100 and 1600 while the tripper boats are there, offloading loads of grockle to scream and swim. But in the morning and evening it's tranquil and heavenly. Despite the Pilot saying that overnight stays are 'discouraged', we saw no sign of any discouragement and there were plenty of other boats there too.
We then did he short hop to Gaios in a couple of hours and took one of about 5 available spaces. It's a pretty little town with good shopping and with water and Diesel for sale from very active tankers. Prices not unreasonable at €1.08 per liter of Diesel and €6 for a fill of water.
On Friday we set off to Lakka on the north of Paxos via the long way round. The scenery on the western side is stunning. Great white cliffs, deep ravines and huge caves. One of them took a full-size ferry as it showed it off to its passengers and even Rosa with her tall mast could get into the entrance!
We got to Lakka at midday and anchored out in the bay. It is all soft white sand (pretty good holding) and unbelievably clear water. When there is no wind ruffling the surface, the water is almost invisible and the boats seem to be flying above the sand. The town is very small but very pretty, with a couple of shops and a several tavernas. The tourist office on the quay manages a free and thoroughly excellent book swap - well worth a visit.
We were expecting strong winds on Sunday and Monday so we re-anchored in the NorthWest corner of the bay, well tucked in with long lines ashore. We then sat there smugly, rocking gently, while the poor souls out in the open bay were thrown around all night.
We stayed three days - two waiting out force 6-7 winds and then another in anticipation of a light Southerly to blow us up to Curfu. Wednesday dawned and no such luck - we had light northerlies and had to motor yet again. We checked out Kavos harbour (basic but tenable) and the Levkimi Canal (too shallow even for us at less than a Meter).
We then went on to NOAK by Curfu Town. It's pretty safe, and at €30 per night including potable water and electricity, pretty good value. Unfortunately they are chokka the whole of August so cannot accomodate us when family arrives and departs from the Airport. There might be a last minute space, but we will probably have to anchor off and then moor temporarily at the far end of the quay while we get the grandchildren and luggage on board before going off and anchoring again.
From Preveza, we set off just before 0800 and had a 6 hour, uneventful motor to Mongonisi on the south of Paxos. It was just as we remembered it: a safe anchorage with a free quay and taverna tucked in under the island. There seems to be a new cafe down at the end of the bay, but the waiter said it had always been there. We chose to anchor and had several nice cool swims during the afternoon.
Next day we headed down to Emerald bay. It had looked packed as we went past the previous day, so we resolved to get there early. The central bay is unspoiled and lovely. Clear turquoise water (L swears its green, but I don't see it that way) over soft sand. We took a line ashore and stayed for two days. It gets pretty manic between 1100 and 1600 while the tripper boats are there, offloading loads of grockle to scream and swim. But in the morning and evening it's tranquil and heavenly. Despite the Pilot saying that overnight stays are 'discouraged', we saw no sign of any discouragement and there were plenty of other boats there too.
We then did he short hop to Gaios in a couple of hours and took one of about 5 available spaces. It's a pretty little town with good shopping and with water and Diesel for sale from very active tankers. Prices not unreasonable at €1.08 per liter of Diesel and €6 for a fill of water.
On Friday we set off to Lakka on the north of Paxos via the long way round. The scenery on the western side is stunning. Great white cliffs, deep ravines and huge caves. One of them took a full-size ferry as it showed it off to its passengers and even Rosa with her tall mast could get into the entrance!
We got to Lakka at midday and anchored out in the bay. It is all soft white sand (pretty good holding) and unbelievably clear water. When there is no wind ruffling the surface, the water is almost invisible and the boats seem to be flying above the sand. The town is very small but very pretty, with a couple of shops and a several tavernas. The tourist office on the quay manages a free and thoroughly excellent book swap - well worth a visit.
We were expecting strong winds on Sunday and Monday so we re-anchored in the NorthWest corner of the bay, well tucked in with long lines ashore. We then sat there smugly, rocking gently, while the poor souls out in the open bay were thrown around all night.
We stayed three days - two waiting out force 6-7 winds and then another in anticipation of a light Southerly to blow us up to Curfu. Wednesday dawned and no such luck - we had light northerlies and had to motor yet again. We checked out Kavos harbour (basic but tenable) and the Levkimi Canal (too shallow even for us at less than a Meter).
We then went on to NOAK by Curfu Town. It's pretty safe, and at €30 per night including potable water and electricity, pretty good value. Unfortunately they are chokka the whole of August so cannot accomodate us when family arrives and departs from the Airport. There might be a last minute space, but we will probably have to anchor off and then moor temporarily at the far end of the quay while we get the grandchildren and luggage on board before going off and anchoring again.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
The inland sea (Gulf of Amvrika)
We have thoroughly enjoyed the Gulf – sometimes called the Inland Sea. It’s safe, beautiful, warm and un-crowded.
When we arrived at Preveza, our first thought was to stay on the quay. In the event, the swell looked unpleasant so we anchored in the bay on the North side of the harbour. Holding and shelter are excellent – a good decision.
Early next day we set off for Vonitsa aiming to get there early so as to be sure of a space. We remember it from our flotilla days as one of our favourites and still is lovely. The (free) marina is very well sheltered, has lazy lines and free water. Most of the spaces are occupied by live-aboards who don’t appear to move very often so the few vacant spaces go quickly. There are alternative moorings on the town quay and a good anchorage behind the island to the east of the town.
Vonitsa town is thoroughly Greek with plenty of tavernas and supplies and a fabulous Venitian Castle. The first Taverna you come to is called Remezzo – and goes out of its way to help visiting yachts. They have showers, will freeze bottles of water, know everything about the local area and also provide good food with a much better menu than your run-of-the-mill taverna. We stayed a couple of days.
On the way over to Vouvalos, we saw several large pods of Dolfins all busily fishing. We tried to get in among them but they just quietly moved off 100 yards or so and resumed fishing so we left them in peace.
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Later that day I fulfilled a boyhood dream. I had my own desert island all to myself! We anchored off Vouvalos in the bay to the north East. Shelter from the evening westerly was good (with a little swell creeping round). You need a shallow draft to get tucked in far enough (no more than 1.5 M). We had the whole archipelago to ourselves for two days with only seagulls, Dolfins and Turtles for company. The middle of the island has a salt-water lagoon/lake and the beaches are accessible. The emerald green islets though would need to be explored with a machete.
We finished our exploration by anchoring in the bay by Nikopolis and trecking up to the ruins – about a mile. It’s a huge Roman city, founded by Augustus Caesar (nee Octavian) to celebrate his victory over Mark Anthony a Cleopatra. There is a huge stadium, a great Amphitheatre and the remains of a great monument/temple to Augustus. L though it was yet another collection of old rocks – with some justification as there is little or no excavation or explanation. Impressive though.
Finally we went back to Preveza to vittle up for our forthcoming foray into the Northern Ionian. We moored on the quay and only later realised that we were right by a sewage outfall and a Disco that would run till 4.00 in the morning. So after picking up fuel, water (free) food and drink, we decamped and went round to the anchorage again. Knowing that there is a gale coming next night, we tucked ourselves well in to the shore. Unknown to us, the small tavern with yellow parasols turned uout to be nothing of the sort – it was a disco that went on till 0400 in the morning!
We moved further out on Sunday morning and will stay here for a couple of days till the wind drop.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Round Levkas to Vonitsa
After dropping M & V L shopped for stores in Nidri while D worked and watched out for the water man. The water was good but the shopping was seriously expensive.
We spent the next 2 days anchored in the large gulf south of Nidri. D was able to do a couple of days work and L caught up with the chores. Both of us fell in the water whenever we got hot.
Our final rendezvous with Rick & the Swiss Roll crowd was in Vathi (Meganissi) where we had another excellent meal at the Rose-Garden. Thoroughly recommended.
We decided to go to Preveza round the outside of Levkas – largely because we could and hadn’t ever seen it. Charter boats are generally prohibited from there. We decided to do a one-day hop to Sivota or Vassiliki and then go round next day.
On the way we passed this extraordinary vessel. No idea what it was
In the event, we couldn’t get our anchor to hold in Sivota in the strong winds. We thought about Vassiliki but with its reputation for vicious gusts decided to head for Fiscardo instead. Bad move!
We got there at 1830 to find, not surprisingly, that the quay was full. There still seemed to be some space for long lines by the wall so we started an anchor run between an English and an Italian boat. The English started shouting we were over their anchor (I’m pretty sure we weren’t) but we aborted and tried again. This time the Italians started jumping up and down and jabbering. Lindsay was so put off that although the anchor was in the right place, she stopped letting the chain out and sure enough we did then drag our anchor over theirs which turned out to be a large and complex arrangement of main and two kedges with three ropes. Presumably that’s what they were trying to tell me – but my Italian was nowhere near good enough to understand and they didn’t speak English or French.
It was hugely embarrassing and they came out to help in a dinghy (with a woman in it shouting and shaking her fist all the time) while I did my best to hold Rosa still so as not to dislodge any of their anchors and stop the strong wind from pushing us onto several other boats nearby. Eventually we got free and slunk off to find a bay.
We were completely unable to get the anchor to hold in two bays due to weed and ended up tying off to a large steel construction that was derelict but strong enough to hold us. Altogether, one of the worst and most stressful days we’ve had – G & Ts were well deserved when we finally had Rosa tucked up.
Early Saturday morning we set off and motored then sailed round Levkas – passing the huge cliff where the love-lorn Poetess Sapho threw herself off in 600BC. The coast is spectacularly wild and mountainous particularly in the southern half. In the northern part there are some surprisingly beautiful sandy beaches interspersed with mountainous headlands. Well worth a look.
Finally, on the way into Preveza, we were close to a Jibe on the Port tack and a yacht coming from Paxos was crossing us under ½ rolled gennoa on Starboard tack. We were pretty sure he was motoring but couldn’t be sure so when he completely ignored us and looked as if we were going to collide, I tried to give way by turning 20 degrees to Port. He did the same and we were still on a collision course and getting very close. I probably should have Jibed but the time taken to get it together would probably have taken too long. I also should have sounded the horn or shouted. Suddenly he noticed us and swung hard to starboard and passed behind us. He probably hadn’t seen us under his sail and he studiously looked straight ahead as he passed single-handing. All very scary and definite lessons learned.
We decided against the town quay in Preveza – there was a nasty sideways swell reminiscent of Siracusa - so we went round to the anchorage behind the harbour and had a secure and pleasant night. We set of for Vonitsa in the morning and after a lovely swim by a deserted island and passing a pod of Dolphins, arrived to a friendly welcome from a large number of live-aboards. Vonitsa is still as nice and friendly as we remember and we will probably stay here for a few days.
We spent the next 2 days anchored in the large gulf south of Nidri. D was able to do a couple of days work and L caught up with the chores. Both of us fell in the water whenever we got hot.
Our final rendezvous with Rick & the Swiss Roll crowd was in Vathi (Meganissi) where we had another excellent meal at the Rose-Garden. Thoroughly recommended.
We decided to go to Preveza round the outside of Levkas – largely because we could and hadn’t ever seen it. Charter boats are generally prohibited from there. We decided to do a one-day hop to Sivota or Vassiliki and then go round next day.
On the way we passed this extraordinary vessel. No idea what it was
In the event, we couldn’t get our anchor to hold in Sivota in the strong winds. We thought about Vassiliki but with its reputation for vicious gusts decided to head for Fiscardo instead. Bad move!
We got there at 1830 to find, not surprisingly, that the quay was full. There still seemed to be some space for long lines by the wall so we started an anchor run between an English and an Italian boat. The English started shouting we were over their anchor (I’m pretty sure we weren’t) but we aborted and tried again. This time the Italians started jumping up and down and jabbering. Lindsay was so put off that although the anchor was in the right place, she stopped letting the chain out and sure enough we did then drag our anchor over theirs which turned out to be a large and complex arrangement of main and two kedges with three ropes. Presumably that’s what they were trying to tell me – but my Italian was nowhere near good enough to understand and they didn’t speak English or French.
It was hugely embarrassing and they came out to help in a dinghy (with a woman in it shouting and shaking her fist all the time) while I did my best to hold Rosa still so as not to dislodge any of their anchors and stop the strong wind from pushing us onto several other boats nearby. Eventually we got free and slunk off to find a bay.
We were completely unable to get the anchor to hold in two bays due to weed and ended up tying off to a large steel construction that was derelict but strong enough to hold us. Altogether, one of the worst and most stressful days we’ve had – G & Ts were well deserved when we finally had Rosa tucked up.
Early Saturday morning we set off and motored then sailed round Levkas – passing the huge cliff where the love-lorn Poetess Sapho threw herself off in 600BC. The coast is spectacularly wild and mountainous particularly in the southern half. In the northern part there are some surprisingly beautiful sandy beaches interspersed with mountainous headlands. Well worth a look.
Finally, on the way into Preveza, we were close to a Jibe on the Port tack and a yacht coming from Paxos was crossing us under ½ rolled gennoa on Starboard tack. We were pretty sure he was motoring but couldn’t be sure so when he completely ignored us and looked as if we were going to collide, I tried to give way by turning 20 degrees to Port. He did the same and we were still on a collision course and getting very close. I probably should have Jibed but the time taken to get it together would probably have taken too long. I also should have sounded the horn or shouted. Suddenly he noticed us and swung hard to starboard and passed behind us. He probably hadn’t seen us under his sail and he studiously looked straight ahead as he passed single-handing. All very scary and definite lessons learned.
We decided against the town quay in Preveza – there was a nasty sideways swell reminiscent of Siracusa - so we went round to the anchorage behind the harbour and had a secure and pleasant night. We set of for Vonitsa in the morning and after a lovely swim by a deserted island and passing a pod of Dolphins, arrived to a friendly welcome from a large number of live-aboards. Vonitsa is still as nice and friendly as we remember and we will probably stay here for a few days.
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