Week with Malcolm and Val plus Rick, Blue & Swiss Roll

We had a lovely lazy week while our friends Malcolm and Val were here. We only did 60 miles the whole week and some of the places we went to (such as Meganissi) were repeats - but beautiful nevertheless.
A couple of nights we chose wild anchorages – far away from everything. Both were magical although the bay just outside Vathi (Ithaca) was quite hairy. It took 4 goes to get the anchor to hold and although it seemed firm, it didn’t inspire confidence. M and L took 2 lines ashore from the stern which seemed ok until the wind started blowing hard, broadside on putting a nasty strain on the anchor. We decided to put another line ashore from the bow to an up-wind rock on the edge of the bay. After a windy but secure night, the rock we were attached to exploded into fragments. We were safe, but I’m glad it didn’t happen in the dark or continuous anchor-watches would have been necessary.

We also stayed a more peaceful night in One House Bay on uninhabited Astakos - Lovely clear cool water and nobody for miles except for 2 other small boats in the same bay. In the morning, a herd of goats, complete with bells, delicately picked their way over the beach and along the steep cliffs. A kid got separated from his mother and when she finally answered his frantic bleating ran at break-neck speed across rocks and cliffs to get to her. Terrifying to watch and we all heaved a sigh of relief when he made it.
The other places we visited were places that M & V wanted to revisit when they were last here a few years ago on a charter. Vathi on Ithaca had reasonable shopping and a safe harbour with loads of space to moor and to anchor but a bit swelly.


Kioni a short hop north was just lovely. It’s a classical village with amazingly clear water, lovely tavernas and friendly bread and veg vans. We had breakfast under a Gum tree.





















We finished up at Nidri. Had a wonderful Dinner ant Elena's courtesy of M & V. Next day we went up to the Town Quay early in the morning and lurked till someone left. The hoped-for bus connection to Preveza Airport didn’t materialise so a taxi had to be organised at short notice – very stressful as changeover for the huge flotilla fleet is Sunday too. Book your taxi ahead if you are planning the same.
Despite the taxi, Nidri is a much more convenient and congenial place for meeting planes. The anchorage is enormous and completely safe. The quay is lumpy with ferry wash but safe enough with excellent holding for the anchor. It’s very crowded but if you anchor the night before then lurk off the quay next morning till someone leaves, it is easy enough to get a space. Water is good quality and 5 Euros a fill.


We met up with Rick, Blue and the Swiss Roll crowd for another excellent meal in the Rose Garden in Vathi (Meganissi) and then sadly waved goodbye as they set off for home and we continued our journey to nowhere in particular.

Aigina to Levkas

`Rob & L arrived on the 11.00 ferry from Athens. After a bit of light shopping, we set of for Korfos. This was surprisingly nice – a huge bay with good safe anchoring. Great for winding down and a cooling dip. After dinner we took the dinghy over to Georges tavern for a drink and some “Mesethes” (greek appetisers). The octopus was truly excellent, prices good and the service was friendly and quick – definitely a place to come back to.

Next morning it was through the canal – The wind just kept on heading us so we had to motor half of the way and just got a close reach for the few miles up to the canal. We were through (and lighter of pocket by 135 euro) by 2.30 – being chased by a large ship behind, held up by a slow Dutch yacht ahead and dive-bombed by bungee jumpers above.

After leaving the canal, we had a cracking sail over to teh Alkionithes islands. This tme we really found the Monastery. It was most interesting and obviously being renovated. Whether it is to become a monastery again – or perhaps a hotel or a house was not clear. The church is clearly still consecrated and functional – complete with monks buried in the garden.
We left at 8.00 after a refreshing sea-shower and had a cracking sail with easterly winds almost all the way to Galaxidi. We were able to anchor temporarily under the islands by the entrance to the port in beautiful turquoise water for a swim. To our surprise, the Canadian Show barge we had met in May was still there. Their show is apparently spectacular and we are hoping to catch up with them again in the Ionian later in the year. We ate in the Taverna on the quay – spectacular views and fair to middling food.
As we still had a long way to go to Levkas, we had to make progress and just passed through Trizonia on the way to Navpaktos. It’s very picturesque and quiet and looks like a great place to return to later.
Unlike our previous visit, the visitors places in Navpaktos had now been dredged and 4 yachts could get in there at a pinch with a further 2 or 3 on the town steps. Rob and Lindsay went up to the castle.

Next stop was Missalonghion. We had expected this to be rather dull and flat but were pleasantly surprised. The 3 mile canal up to the harbour is lined with picturesque fishermans houses on stilts. The marina is now under active construction but visitors are being encouraged and both mooring and water are free. Electricity and tailed lines will be installed in July and then a modest charge may be made. The town is lively and has excellent provisions.

The ‘Garden of Heros” is well worth a visit with fascinating monuments to people and nations who assisted Greece in her struggle for independence from Turks. Byron is there among many others.

















We met up with Mike and Raija at Nisos Petalas – an empty but excellent anchorage just out of the Gulf of Patras. There must have been a lot of fresh water flowing in as there was a very cold layer on the surface which was sliding fast over the deeper water. You could float upright, remaining almost static, while the surface water skimmed past your nose at a couple of knots. Very wierd!

The final stop before Levkas was at Abeliki on Meganisi. This is one of our favourites from chartering years ago. There is no significant development around the huge safe bay system – just a couple of inoffensive tavernas. Rob liked it so much that we stayed there swimming, snoozing and eating for two days.
Levkas was its usual busy self. We stayed in the Marina because of dropping Rob at the bus station and picking up Val and Malcolm later in the day. It was horribly expensive (€50) but did have free water and electricity. Rip-off pricess for WiFi and showers did not endear it however and in future we will anchor or use the Town Quay when possible.

To Aigina and then wait

I’ve been rather lazy with blogging as we are retracing our steps across the Saronic Gulf. I’ll fill in quickly on progress so far.

After a night in Poros, we anchored in Russian bay just to the west for a couple of days. It’s one of our favourite spots with calm blue water, good sand to anchor in and just a few other boats to let you know people exist.
On Saturday, the tiny chapel on the island burst into life as a full scale wedding took place there.

Arnie took some nice pictures of us leaving.











Then it was off to Methana - an interesting place underneath a dormant volcano that sends sulphurous streams down into the harbour. The place has obviously been grand in the past but has now fallen on much harder times. Seems to be a place where old live-aboards come to quietly rust away. Nevertheless, it’s a friendly and reasonably priced place.
We then went to Aiginia via one of our favourite anchorages from long ago between Angistri and the tiny island to the south.
D stayed for 7 days sweltering and fretting about people dredging up our anchor (which happened 3 times). I made several friends while L was swanning around the UK. Rob and L came back on the ferry and we set of in the afternoon on the way to Levkas to drop Rob and pick up Val and Malcolm.