North to Corfu

We approached this voyage with some trepidation as many people have told us that the Northern Ionian in July and August is too hot and too crowded to be enjoyable. So in the event we have been pleasantly surprised. We were never unable to get in where we wanted to and although it has been quite warm, the cool sea is just a few feet away and Rosa provides plenty of shade. Because of the expected crowding, we have generally tried to arrive at ports in the morning and that has worked well. Mosquitoes seem to be everywhere but only appear as the sun sets. They even seem to go away while it is dark. But while they are there, they are voracious.

From Preveza, we set off just before 0800 and had a 6 hour, uneventful motor to Mongonisi on the south of Paxos. It was just as we remembered it: a safe anchorage with a free quay and taverna tucked in under the island. There seems to be a new cafe down at the end of the bay, but the waiter said it had always been there. We chose to anchor and had several nice cool swims during the afternoon.


Next day we headed down to Emerald bay. It had looked packed as we went past the previous day, so we resolved to get there early. The central bay is unspoiled and lovely. Clear turquoise water (L swears its green, but I don't see it that way) over soft sand. We took a line ashore and stayed for two days. It gets pretty manic between 1100 and 1600 while the tripper boats are there, offloading loads of grockle to scream and swim. But in the morning and evening it's tranquil and heavenly. Despite the Pilot saying that overnight stays are 'discouraged', we saw no sign of any discouragement and there were plenty of other boats there too.


We then did he short hop to Gaios in a couple of hours and took one of about 5 available spaces. It's a pretty little town with good shopping and with water and Diesel for sale from very active tankers. Prices not unreasonable at €1.08 per liter of Diesel and €6 for a fill of water.


On Friday we set off to Lakka on the north of Paxos via the long way round. The scenery on the western side is stunning. Great white cliffs, deep ravines and huge caves. One of them took a full-size ferry as it showed it off to its passengers and even Rosa with her tall mast could get into the entrance!




We got to Lakka at midday and anchored out in the bay. It is all soft white sand (pretty good holding) and unbelievably clear water. When there is no wind ruffling the surface, the water is almost invisible and the boats seem to be flying above the sand. The town is very small but very pretty, with a couple of shops and a several tavernas. The tourist office on the quay manages a free and thoroughly excellent book swap - well worth a visit.


We were expecting strong winds on Sunday and Monday so we re-anchored in the NorthWest corner of the bay, well tucked in with long lines ashore. We then sat there smugly, rocking gently, while the poor souls out in the open bay were thrown around all night.
We stayed three days - two waiting out force 6-7 winds and then another in anticipation of a light Southerly to blow us up to Curfu. Wednesday dawned and no such luck - we had light northerlies and had to motor yet again. We checked out Kavos harbour (basic but tenable) and the Levkimi Canal (too shallow even for us at less than a Meter).


We then went on to NOAK by Curfu Town. It's pretty safe, and at €30 per night including potable water and electricity, pretty good value. Unfortunately they are chokka the whole of August so cannot accomodate us when family arrives and departs from the Airport. There might be a last minute space, but we will probably have to anchor off and then moor temporarily at the far end of the quay while we get the grandchildren and luggage on board before going off and anchoring again.

The inland sea (Gulf of Amvrika)

We have thoroughly enjoyed the Gulf – sometimes called the Inland Sea. It’s safe, beautiful, warm and un-crowded.
When we arrived at Preveza, our first thought was to stay on the quay. In the event, the swell looked unpleasant so we anchored in the bay on the North side of the harbour. Holding and shelter are excellent – a good decision.
Early next day we set off for Vonitsa aiming to get there early so as to be sure of a space. We remember it from our flotilla days as one of our favourites and still is lovely. The (free) marina is very well sheltered, has lazy lines and free water. Most of the spaces are occupied by live-aboards who don’t appear to move very often so the few vacant spaces go quickly. There are alternative moorings on the town quay and a good anchorage behind the island to the east of the town.


Vonitsa town is thoroughly Greek with plenty of tavernas and supplies and a fabulous Venitian Castle. The first Taverna you come to is called Remezzo – and goes out of its way to help visiting yachts. They have showers, will freeze bottles of water, know everything about the local area and also provide good food with a much better menu than your run-of-the-mill taverna. We stayed a couple of days.


On the way over to Vouvalos, we saw several large pods of Dolfins all busily fishing. We tried to get in among them but they just quietly moved off 100 yards or so and resumed fishing so we left them in peace.


Later that day I fulfilled a boyhood dream. I had my own desert island all to myself! We anchored off Vouvalos in the bay to the north East. Shelter from the evening westerly was good (with a little swell creeping round). You need a shallow draft to get tucked in far enough (no more than 1.5 M). We had the whole archipelago to ourselves for two days with only seagulls, Dolfins and Turtles for company. The middle of the island has a salt-water lagoon/lake and the beaches are accessible. The emerald green islets though would need to be explored with a machete.


We finished our exploration by anchoring in the bay by Nikopolis and trecking up to the ruins – about a mile. It’s a huge Roman city, founded by Augustus Caesar (nee Octavian) to celebrate his victory over Mark Anthony a Cleopatra. There is a huge stadium, a great Amphitheatre and the remains of a great monument/temple to Augustus. L though it was yet another collection of old rocks – with some justification as there is little or no excavation or explanation. Impressive though.
Finally we went back to Preveza to vittle up for our forthcoming foray into the Northern Ionian. We moored on the quay and only later realised that we were right by a sewage outfall and a Disco that would run till 4.00 in the morning. So after picking up fuel, water (free) food and drink, we decamped and went round to the anchorage again. Knowing that there is a gale coming next night, we tucked ourselves well in to the shore. Unknown to us, the small tavern with yellow parasols turned uout to be nothing of the sort – it was a disco that went on till 0400 in the morning!
We moved further out on Sunday morning and will stay here for a couple of days till the wind drop.

Round Levkas to Vonitsa

After dropping M & V L shopped for stores in Nidri while D worked and watched out for the water man. The water was good but the shopping was seriously expensive.
We spent the next 2 days anchored in the large gulf south of Nidri. D was able to do a couple of days work and L caught up with the chores. Both of us fell in the water whenever we got hot.
Our final rendezvous with Rick & the Swiss Roll crowd was in Vathi (Meganissi) where we had another excellent meal at the Rose-Garden. Thoroughly recommended.
We decided to go to Preveza round the outside of Levkas – largely because we could and hadn’t ever seen it. Charter boats are generally prohibited from there. We decided to do a one-day hop to Sivota or Vassiliki and then go round next day.


On the way we passed this extraordinary vessel. No idea what it was

In the event, we couldn’t get our anchor to hold in Sivota in the strong winds. We thought about Vassiliki but with its reputation for vicious gusts decided to head for Fiscardo instead. Bad move!
We got there at 1830 to find, not surprisingly, that the quay was full. There still seemed to be some space for long lines by the wall so we started an anchor run between an English and an Italian boat. The English started shouting we were over their anchor (I’m pretty sure we weren’t) but we aborted and tried again. This time the Italians started jumping up and down and jabbering. Lindsay was so put off that although the anchor was in the right place, she stopped letting the chain out and sure enough we did then drag our anchor over theirs which turned out to be a large and complex arrangement of main and two kedges with three ropes. Presumably that’s what they were trying to tell me – but my Italian was nowhere near good enough to understand and they didn’t speak English or French.
It was hugely embarrassing and they came out to help in a dinghy (with a woman in it shouting and shaking her fist all the time) while I did my best to hold Rosa still so as not to dislodge any of their anchors and stop the strong wind from pushing us onto several other boats nearby. Eventually we got free and slunk off to find a bay.
We were completely unable to get the anchor to hold in two bays due to weed and ended up tying off to a large steel construction that was derelict but strong enough to hold us. Altogether, one of the worst and most stressful days we’ve had – G & Ts were well deserved when we finally had Rosa tucked up.

Early Saturday morning we set off and motored then sailed round Levkas – passing the huge cliff where the love-lorn Poetess Sapho threw herself off in 600BC. The coast is spectacularly wild and mountainous particularly in the southern half. In the northern part there are some surprisingly beautiful sandy beaches interspersed with mountainous headlands. Well worth a look.
Finally, on the way into Preveza, we were close to a Jibe on the Port tack and a yacht coming from Paxos was crossing us under ½ rolled gennoa on Starboard tack. We were pretty sure he was motoring but couldn’t be sure so when he completely ignored us and looked as if we were going to collide, I tried to give way by turning 20 degrees to Port. He did the same and we were still on a collision course and getting very close. I probably should have Jibed but the time taken to get it together would probably have taken too long. I also should have sounded the horn or shouted. Suddenly he noticed us and swung hard to starboard and passed behind us. He probably hadn’t seen us under his sail and he studiously looked straight ahead as he passed single-handing. All very scary and definite lessons learned.
We decided against the town quay in Preveza – there was a nasty sideways swell reminiscent of Siracusa - so we went round to the anchorage behind the harbour and had a secure and pleasant night. We set of for Vonitsa in the morning and after a lovely swim by a deserted island and passing a pod of Dolphins, arrived to a friendly welcome from a large number of live-aboards. Vonitsa is still as nice and friendly as we remember and we will probably stay here for a few days.