North to Corfu

We approached this voyage with some trepidation as many people have told us that the Northern Ionian in July and August is too hot and too crowded to be enjoyable. So in the event we have been pleasantly surprised. We were never unable to get in where we wanted to and although it has been quite warm, the cool sea is just a few feet away and Rosa provides plenty of shade. Because of the expected crowding, we have generally tried to arrive at ports in the morning and that has worked well. Mosquitoes seem to be everywhere but only appear as the sun sets. They even seem to go away while it is dark. But while they are there, they are voracious.

From Preveza, we set off just before 0800 and had a 6 hour, uneventful motor to Mongonisi on the south of Paxos. It was just as we remembered it: a safe anchorage with a free quay and taverna tucked in under the island. There seems to be a new cafe down at the end of the bay, but the waiter said it had always been there. We chose to anchor and had several nice cool swims during the afternoon.


Next day we headed down to Emerald bay. It had looked packed as we went past the previous day, so we resolved to get there early. The central bay is unspoiled and lovely. Clear turquoise water (L swears its green, but I don't see it that way) over soft sand. We took a line ashore and stayed for two days. It gets pretty manic between 1100 and 1600 while the tripper boats are there, offloading loads of grockle to scream and swim. But in the morning and evening it's tranquil and heavenly. Despite the Pilot saying that overnight stays are 'discouraged', we saw no sign of any discouragement and there were plenty of other boats there too.


We then did he short hop to Gaios in a couple of hours and took one of about 5 available spaces. It's a pretty little town with good shopping and with water and Diesel for sale from very active tankers. Prices not unreasonable at €1.08 per liter of Diesel and €6 for a fill of water.


On Friday we set off to Lakka on the north of Paxos via the long way round. The scenery on the western side is stunning. Great white cliffs, deep ravines and huge caves. One of them took a full-size ferry as it showed it off to its passengers and even Rosa with her tall mast could get into the entrance!




We got to Lakka at midday and anchored out in the bay. It is all soft white sand (pretty good holding) and unbelievably clear water. When there is no wind ruffling the surface, the water is almost invisible and the boats seem to be flying above the sand. The town is very small but very pretty, with a couple of shops and a several tavernas. The tourist office on the quay manages a free and thoroughly excellent book swap - well worth a visit.


We were expecting strong winds on Sunday and Monday so we re-anchored in the NorthWest corner of the bay, well tucked in with long lines ashore. We then sat there smugly, rocking gently, while the poor souls out in the open bay were thrown around all night.
We stayed three days - two waiting out force 6-7 winds and then another in anticipation of a light Southerly to blow us up to Curfu. Wednesday dawned and no such luck - we had light northerlies and had to motor yet again. We checked out Kavos harbour (basic but tenable) and the Levkimi Canal (too shallow even for us at less than a Meter).


We then went on to NOAK by Curfu Town. It's pretty safe, and at €30 per night including potable water and electricity, pretty good value. Unfortunately they are chokka the whole of August so cannot accomodate us when family arrives and departs from the Airport. There might be a last minute space, but we will probably have to anchor off and then moor temporarily at the far end of the quay while we get the grandchildren and luggage on board before going off and anchoring again.