The story of our summer 2009 voyaging around Greece.

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Sunday, July 12, 2009

The inland sea (Gulf of Amvrika)


We have thoroughly enjoyed the Gulf – sometimes called the Inland Sea. It’s safe, beautiful, warm and un-crowded.
When we arrived at Preveza, our first thought was to stay on the quay. In the event, the swell looked unpleasant so we anchored in the bay on the North side of the harbour. Holding and shelter are excellent – a good decision.
Early next day we set off for Vonitsa aiming to get there early so as to be sure of a space. We remember it from our flotilla days as one of our favourites and still is lovely. The (free) marina is very well sheltered, has lazy lines and free water. Most of the spaces are occupied by live-aboards who don’t appear to move very often so the few vacant spaces go quickly. There are alternative moorings on the town quay and a good anchorage behind the island to the east of the town.


Vonitsa town is thoroughly Greek with plenty of tavernas and supplies and a fabulous Venitian Castle. The first Taverna you come to is called Remezzo – and goes out of its way to help visiting yachts. They have showers, will freeze bottles of water, know everything about the local area and also provide good food with a much better menu than your run-of-the-mill taverna. We stayed a couple of days.


On the way over to Vouvalos, we saw several large pods of Dolfins all busily fishing. We tried to get in among them but they just quietly moved off 100 yards or so and resumed fishing so we left them in peace.


Later that day I fulfilled a boyhood dream. I had my own desert island all to myself! We anchored off Vouvalos in the bay to the north East. Shelter from the evening westerly was good (with a little swell creeping round). You need a shallow draft to get tucked in far enough (no more than 1.5 M). We had the whole archipelago to ourselves for two days with only seagulls, Dolfins and Turtles for company. The middle of the island has a salt-water lagoon/lake and the beaches are accessible. The emerald green islets though would need to be explored with a machete.


We finished our exploration by anchoring in the bay by Nikopolis and trecking up to the ruins – about a mile. It’s a huge Roman city, founded by Augustus Caesar (nee Octavian) to celebrate his victory over Mark Anthony a Cleopatra. There is a huge stadium, a great Amphitheatre and the remains of a great monument/temple to Augustus. L though it was yet another collection of old rocks – with some justification as there is little or no excavation or explanation. Impressive though.
Finally we went back to Preveza to vittle up for our forthcoming foray into the Northern Ionian. We moored on the quay and only later realised that we were right by a sewage outfall and a Disco that would run till 4.00 in the morning. So after picking up fuel, water (free) food and drink, we decamped and went round to the anchorage again. Knowing that there is a gale coming next night, we tucked ourselves well in to the shore. Unknown to us, the small tavern with yellow parasols turned uout to be nothing of the sort – it was a disco that went on till 0400 in the morning!
We moved further out on Sunday morning and will stay here for a couple of days till the wind drop.

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