North to Corfu

We approached this voyage with some trepidation as many people have told us that the Northern Ionian in July and August is too hot and too crowded to be enjoyable. So in the event we have been pleasantly surprised. We were never unable to get in where we wanted to and although it has been quite warm, the cool sea is just a few feet away and Rosa provides plenty of shade. Because of the expected crowding, we have generally tried to arrive at ports in the morning and that has worked well. Mosquitoes seem to be everywhere but only appear as the sun sets. They even seem to go away while it is dark. But while they are there, they are voracious.

From Preveza, we set off just before 0800 and had a 6 hour, uneventful motor to Mongonisi on the south of Paxos. It was just as we remembered it: a safe anchorage with a free quay and taverna tucked in under the island. There seems to be a new cafe down at the end of the bay, but the waiter said it had always been there. We chose to anchor and had several nice cool swims during the afternoon.


Next day we headed down to Emerald bay. It had looked packed as we went past the previous day, so we resolved to get there early. The central bay is unspoiled and lovely. Clear turquoise water (L swears its green, but I don't see it that way) over soft sand. We took a line ashore and stayed for two days. It gets pretty manic between 1100 and 1600 while the tripper boats are there, offloading loads of grockle to scream and swim. But in the morning and evening it's tranquil and heavenly. Despite the Pilot saying that overnight stays are 'discouraged', we saw no sign of any discouragement and there were plenty of other boats there too.


We then did he short hop to Gaios in a couple of hours and took one of about 5 available spaces. It's a pretty little town with good shopping and with water and Diesel for sale from very active tankers. Prices not unreasonable at €1.08 per liter of Diesel and €6 for a fill of water.


On Friday we set off to Lakka on the north of Paxos via the long way round. The scenery on the western side is stunning. Great white cliffs, deep ravines and huge caves. One of them took a full-size ferry as it showed it off to its passengers and even Rosa with her tall mast could get into the entrance!




We got to Lakka at midday and anchored out in the bay. It is all soft white sand (pretty good holding) and unbelievably clear water. When there is no wind ruffling the surface, the water is almost invisible and the boats seem to be flying above the sand. The town is very small but very pretty, with a couple of shops and a several tavernas. The tourist office on the quay manages a free and thoroughly excellent book swap - well worth a visit.


We were expecting strong winds on Sunday and Monday so we re-anchored in the NorthWest corner of the bay, well tucked in with long lines ashore. We then sat there smugly, rocking gently, while the poor souls out in the open bay were thrown around all night.
We stayed three days - two waiting out force 6-7 winds and then another in anticipation of a light Southerly to blow us up to Curfu. Wednesday dawned and no such luck - we had light northerlies and had to motor yet again. We checked out Kavos harbour (basic but tenable) and the Levkimi Canal (too shallow even for us at less than a Meter).


We then went on to NOAK by Curfu Town. It's pretty safe, and at €30 per night including potable water and electricity, pretty good value. Unfortunately they are chokka the whole of August so cannot accomodate us when family arrives and departs from the Airport. There might be a last minute space, but we will probably have to anchor off and then moor temporarily at the far end of the quay while we get the grandchildren and luggage on board before going off and anchoring again.

The inland sea (Gulf of Amvrika)

We have thoroughly enjoyed the Gulf – sometimes called the Inland Sea. It’s safe, beautiful, warm and un-crowded.
When we arrived at Preveza, our first thought was to stay on the quay. In the event, the swell looked unpleasant so we anchored in the bay on the North side of the harbour. Holding and shelter are excellent – a good decision.
Early next day we set off for Vonitsa aiming to get there early so as to be sure of a space. We remember it from our flotilla days as one of our favourites and still is lovely. The (free) marina is very well sheltered, has lazy lines and free water. Most of the spaces are occupied by live-aboards who don’t appear to move very often so the few vacant spaces go quickly. There are alternative moorings on the town quay and a good anchorage behind the island to the east of the town.


Vonitsa town is thoroughly Greek with plenty of tavernas and supplies and a fabulous Venitian Castle. The first Taverna you come to is called Remezzo – and goes out of its way to help visiting yachts. They have showers, will freeze bottles of water, know everything about the local area and also provide good food with a much better menu than your run-of-the-mill taverna. We stayed a couple of days.


On the way over to Vouvalos, we saw several large pods of Dolfins all busily fishing. We tried to get in among them but they just quietly moved off 100 yards or so and resumed fishing so we left them in peace.


Later that day I fulfilled a boyhood dream. I had my own desert island all to myself! We anchored off Vouvalos in the bay to the north East. Shelter from the evening westerly was good (with a little swell creeping round). You need a shallow draft to get tucked in far enough (no more than 1.5 M). We had the whole archipelago to ourselves for two days with only seagulls, Dolfins and Turtles for company. The middle of the island has a salt-water lagoon/lake and the beaches are accessible. The emerald green islets though would need to be explored with a machete.


We finished our exploration by anchoring in the bay by Nikopolis and trecking up to the ruins – about a mile. It’s a huge Roman city, founded by Augustus Caesar (nee Octavian) to celebrate his victory over Mark Anthony a Cleopatra. There is a huge stadium, a great Amphitheatre and the remains of a great monument/temple to Augustus. L though it was yet another collection of old rocks – with some justification as there is little or no excavation or explanation. Impressive though.
Finally we went back to Preveza to vittle up for our forthcoming foray into the Northern Ionian. We moored on the quay and only later realised that we were right by a sewage outfall and a Disco that would run till 4.00 in the morning. So after picking up fuel, water (free) food and drink, we decamped and went round to the anchorage again. Knowing that there is a gale coming next night, we tucked ourselves well in to the shore. Unknown to us, the small tavern with yellow parasols turned uout to be nothing of the sort – it was a disco that went on till 0400 in the morning!
We moved further out on Sunday morning and will stay here for a couple of days till the wind drop.

Round Levkas to Vonitsa

After dropping M & V L shopped for stores in Nidri while D worked and watched out for the water man. The water was good but the shopping was seriously expensive.
We spent the next 2 days anchored in the large gulf south of Nidri. D was able to do a couple of days work and L caught up with the chores. Both of us fell in the water whenever we got hot.
Our final rendezvous with Rick & the Swiss Roll crowd was in Vathi (Meganissi) where we had another excellent meal at the Rose-Garden. Thoroughly recommended.
We decided to go to Preveza round the outside of Levkas – largely because we could and hadn’t ever seen it. Charter boats are generally prohibited from there. We decided to do a one-day hop to Sivota or Vassiliki and then go round next day.


On the way we passed this extraordinary vessel. No idea what it was

In the event, we couldn’t get our anchor to hold in Sivota in the strong winds. We thought about Vassiliki but with its reputation for vicious gusts decided to head for Fiscardo instead. Bad move!
We got there at 1830 to find, not surprisingly, that the quay was full. There still seemed to be some space for long lines by the wall so we started an anchor run between an English and an Italian boat. The English started shouting we were over their anchor (I’m pretty sure we weren’t) but we aborted and tried again. This time the Italians started jumping up and down and jabbering. Lindsay was so put off that although the anchor was in the right place, she stopped letting the chain out and sure enough we did then drag our anchor over theirs which turned out to be a large and complex arrangement of main and two kedges with three ropes. Presumably that’s what they were trying to tell me – but my Italian was nowhere near good enough to understand and they didn’t speak English or French.
It was hugely embarrassing and they came out to help in a dinghy (with a woman in it shouting and shaking her fist all the time) while I did my best to hold Rosa still so as not to dislodge any of their anchors and stop the strong wind from pushing us onto several other boats nearby. Eventually we got free and slunk off to find a bay.
We were completely unable to get the anchor to hold in two bays due to weed and ended up tying off to a large steel construction that was derelict but strong enough to hold us. Altogether, one of the worst and most stressful days we’ve had – G & Ts were well deserved when we finally had Rosa tucked up.

Early Saturday morning we set off and motored then sailed round Levkas – passing the huge cliff where the love-lorn Poetess Sapho threw herself off in 600BC. The coast is spectacularly wild and mountainous particularly in the southern half. In the northern part there are some surprisingly beautiful sandy beaches interspersed with mountainous headlands. Well worth a look.
Finally, on the way into Preveza, we were close to a Jibe on the Port tack and a yacht coming from Paxos was crossing us under ½ rolled gennoa on Starboard tack. We were pretty sure he was motoring but couldn’t be sure so when he completely ignored us and looked as if we were going to collide, I tried to give way by turning 20 degrees to Port. He did the same and we were still on a collision course and getting very close. I probably should have Jibed but the time taken to get it together would probably have taken too long. I also should have sounded the horn or shouted. Suddenly he noticed us and swung hard to starboard and passed behind us. He probably hadn’t seen us under his sail and he studiously looked straight ahead as he passed single-handing. All very scary and definite lessons learned.
We decided against the town quay in Preveza – there was a nasty sideways swell reminiscent of Siracusa - so we went round to the anchorage behind the harbour and had a secure and pleasant night. We set of for Vonitsa in the morning and after a lovely swim by a deserted island and passing a pod of Dolphins, arrived to a friendly welcome from a large number of live-aboards. Vonitsa is still as nice and friendly as we remember and we will probably stay here for a few days.

Week with Malcolm and Val plus Rick, Blue & Swiss Roll

We had a lovely lazy week while our friends Malcolm and Val were here. We only did 60 miles the whole week and some of the places we went to (such as Meganissi) were repeats - but beautiful nevertheless.
A couple of nights we chose wild anchorages – far away from everything. Both were magical although the bay just outside Vathi (Ithaca) was quite hairy. It took 4 goes to get the anchor to hold and although it seemed firm, it didn’t inspire confidence. M and L took 2 lines ashore from the stern which seemed ok until the wind started blowing hard, broadside on putting a nasty strain on the anchor. We decided to put another line ashore from the bow to an up-wind rock on the edge of the bay. After a windy but secure night, the rock we were attached to exploded into fragments. We were safe, but I’m glad it didn’t happen in the dark or continuous anchor-watches would have been necessary.

We also stayed a more peaceful night in One House Bay on uninhabited Astakos - Lovely clear cool water and nobody for miles except for 2 other small boats in the same bay. In the morning, a herd of goats, complete with bells, delicately picked their way over the beach and along the steep cliffs. A kid got separated from his mother and when she finally answered his frantic bleating ran at break-neck speed across rocks and cliffs to get to her. Terrifying to watch and we all heaved a sigh of relief when he made it.
The other places we visited were places that M & V wanted to revisit when they were last here a few years ago on a charter. Vathi on Ithaca had reasonable shopping and a safe harbour with loads of space to moor and to anchor but a bit swelly.


Kioni a short hop north was just lovely. It’s a classical village with amazingly clear water, lovely tavernas and friendly bread and veg vans. We had breakfast under a Gum tree.





















We finished up at Nidri. Had a wonderful Dinner ant Elena's courtesy of M & V. Next day we went up to the Town Quay early in the morning and lurked till someone left. The hoped-for bus connection to Preveza Airport didn’t materialise so a taxi had to be organised at short notice – very stressful as changeover for the huge flotilla fleet is Sunday too. Book your taxi ahead if you are planning the same.
Despite the taxi, Nidri is a much more convenient and congenial place for meeting planes. The anchorage is enormous and completely safe. The quay is lumpy with ferry wash but safe enough with excellent holding for the anchor. It’s very crowded but if you anchor the night before then lurk off the quay next morning till someone leaves, it is easy enough to get a space. Water is good quality and 5 Euros a fill.


We met up with Rick, Blue and the Swiss Roll crowd for another excellent meal in the Rose Garden in Vathi (Meganissi) and then sadly waved goodbye as they set off for home and we continued our journey to nowhere in particular.

Aigina to Levkas

`Rob & L arrived on the 11.00 ferry from Athens. After a bit of light shopping, we set of for Korfos. This was surprisingly nice – a huge bay with good safe anchoring. Great for winding down and a cooling dip. After dinner we took the dinghy over to Georges tavern for a drink and some “Mesethes” (greek appetisers). The octopus was truly excellent, prices good and the service was friendly and quick – definitely a place to come back to.

Next morning it was through the canal – The wind just kept on heading us so we had to motor half of the way and just got a close reach for the few miles up to the canal. We were through (and lighter of pocket by 135 euro) by 2.30 – being chased by a large ship behind, held up by a slow Dutch yacht ahead and dive-bombed by bungee jumpers above.

After leaving the canal, we had a cracking sail over to teh Alkionithes islands. This tme we really found the Monastery. It was most interesting and obviously being renovated. Whether it is to become a monastery again – or perhaps a hotel or a house was not clear. The church is clearly still consecrated and functional – complete with monks buried in the garden.
We left at 8.00 after a refreshing sea-shower and had a cracking sail with easterly winds almost all the way to Galaxidi. We were able to anchor temporarily under the islands by the entrance to the port in beautiful turquoise water for a swim. To our surprise, the Canadian Show barge we had met in May was still there. Their show is apparently spectacular and we are hoping to catch up with them again in the Ionian later in the year. We ate in the Taverna on the quay – spectacular views and fair to middling food.
As we still had a long way to go to Levkas, we had to make progress and just passed through Trizonia on the way to Navpaktos. It’s very picturesque and quiet and looks like a great place to return to later.
Unlike our previous visit, the visitors places in Navpaktos had now been dredged and 4 yachts could get in there at a pinch with a further 2 or 3 on the town steps. Rob and Lindsay went up to the castle.

Next stop was Missalonghion. We had expected this to be rather dull and flat but were pleasantly surprised. The 3 mile canal up to the harbour is lined with picturesque fishermans houses on stilts. The marina is now under active construction but visitors are being encouraged and both mooring and water are free. Electricity and tailed lines will be installed in July and then a modest charge may be made. The town is lively and has excellent provisions.

The ‘Garden of Heros” is well worth a visit with fascinating monuments to people and nations who assisted Greece in her struggle for independence from Turks. Byron is there among many others.

















We met up with Mike and Raija at Nisos Petalas – an empty but excellent anchorage just out of the Gulf of Patras. There must have been a lot of fresh water flowing in as there was a very cold layer on the surface which was sliding fast over the deeper water. You could float upright, remaining almost static, while the surface water skimmed past your nose at a couple of knots. Very wierd!

The final stop before Levkas was at Abeliki on Meganisi. This is one of our favourites from chartering years ago. There is no significant development around the huge safe bay system – just a couple of inoffensive tavernas. Rob liked it so much that we stayed there swimming, snoozing and eating for two days.
Levkas was its usual busy self. We stayed in the Marina because of dropping Rob at the bus station and picking up Val and Malcolm later in the day. It was horribly expensive (€50) but did have free water and electricity. Rip-off pricess for WiFi and showers did not endear it however and in future we will anchor or use the Town Quay when possible.

To Aigina and then wait

I’ve been rather lazy with blogging as we are retracing our steps across the Saronic Gulf. I’ll fill in quickly on progress so far.

After a night in Poros, we anchored in Russian bay just to the west for a couple of days. It’s one of our favourite spots with calm blue water, good sand to anchor in and just a few other boats to let you know people exist.
On Saturday, the tiny chapel on the island burst into life as a full scale wedding took place there.

Arnie took some nice pictures of us leaving.











Then it was off to Methana - an interesting place underneath a dormant volcano that sends sulphurous streams down into the harbour. The place has obviously been grand in the past but has now fallen on much harder times. Seems to be a place where old live-aboards come to quietly rust away. Nevertheless, it’s a friendly and reasonably priced place.
We then went to Aiginia via one of our favourite anchorages from long ago between Angistri and the tiny island to the south.
D stayed for 7 days sweltering and fretting about people dredging up our anchor (which happened 3 times). I made several friends while L was swanning around the UK. Rob and L came back on the ferry and we set of in the afternoon on the way to Levkas to drop Rob and pick up Val and Malcolm.

North West through the Cyclades

Our journey back to the Saronic Gulf for Athens has been very restful. We’ve mostly done short hops of 4 to 6 hours and anchored in beautiful, often virtually deserted bays. We have been lucky with the weather – clear skies, sunshine and mostly warm air although at sea it can still be chilly. The winds have occasionally been a little playful but that is only to be expected in these windy islands and is far from the worst they can do.


Manganari on Ios was amazingly blue and almost deserted. It was so beautiful we stayed for two days just chilling and falling in the warm water.






We then anchored between the small island of Andiparos and an even smaller one called Despotiko (odd name but we didn’t discover why). Excellent shelter, very wild and excellent swimming in cool but crystal clear water.
Next day we had a cracking sail to Sifnos on Spinaker and anchored in Vathi. This had a small and low key tourist presence with mostly Greek clients. It has a couple of nice little Tavernas right in the beach and a couple of surprisingly good mini-markets where we got a few provisions.
Serifos was the plan next day. We motored into a head-wind and anchored most of the day in a deserted bay called Ormos Koutala. The hills are pock marked with iron workings and there are a few ruins of the industry but no current activity. While we were anchored in the bay, a youngish man on two crutches drove up to one end of the bay, painfully and very slowly worked himself the whole length of the pebble beach (about 1Km), stripped off and crawled into the sea for a swim. He must have had something like Muscular Distrophy as his legs were able to do very little. It was an amazing display of courage and determination! Very humbling.
From Serifos, we motored, sailed, then motored again to a tiny port called Loutra for supplies. Hardly anybody spoke English (it really isn’t a tourist island) so my rudimentary Greek was very useful. We were made very warmly welcome – particularly in the first Taverna as you leave the port and at a small but very efficient supermarket up the hill. After lunch we made what we expected to be a short hop round the top of the island to Ormos Kolona where there is a wild beach with a hot spring on it. In the event, we found ourselves motoring into the teeth of a force 7 with heavy seas and were very glad to get there after 3 hours. It was more crowded than we hoped – a French live-aboard and a Swiss Charter were aleady there. The anchorage is not big so we were forced to anchor closer to rocks than I was comfortable with. We got away with it as the wind stayed steady. I really should have put out a kedge.


The spring was already full when we got there so we went over at dawn before anyone else was up and had a wonderful open-air hot bath. Thoroughly recommended! We were on the water by 7.00 and sailed almost all of the way to Poros on the Peloponnese. The wind got up to 25 Knots a few times with heavy beam-seas which wasn’t comfortable.


There were ships everywhere too. When it looked as if the wind hat set solidly into the 20s, we put in a reef – whereupon of course, it immediately dropped to 12 knots and then died over the next hour.





Almost at Poros, we went right by a Turtle. It didn’t dive and looked as if one flipper wasn’t working properly – looked as if it might have been injured – poor thing. We wrote up Poros on the way out so I won’t repeat myself here.